It's been a long, long day, but its been an incredible one. I'm writing this lying in bed at 11pm after a day that started at 5.30am! After a breakfast of omelette, stone cold baked beans and a spicy sausage we packed the car ready for our long journey north. A slight delay was had as a tool had to be made to pour the diesel that our driver had managed to get, from the jerry can into the car. On our way to the Government buildings it became apparent that there was a shortage of fuel in the country. Never will we complain again about having to wait a few minutes at a petrol station. The queues were incredible with people having obviously slept overnight in their cars waiting for a petrol tanker to arrive. Every petrol station was like a car park with hundreds of cars lined up and guards on the forecourt entrance ready for the mad dash when the petrol arrived. Some people have been waiting for over three days! We arrived at the Department of Education and after a short wait were introduced to the Minister, who is in charge of the whole Education system in Malawi. He gave a speech about the schools in Malawi and the challenges children, teachers and the LEA faced. He talked very well and was quite inspiring - a very clever and interesting man. We then moved on to meet the British Council officers who are based in Malawi. The British Council are funding in project and it was great to be able to tell them how schools in Llandudno are contributing to the work. After saying our goodbyes we went into the Capital City to change our money. They use Kwetcha here and we changed our pounds and dollars in the local bank (except for Mr Price who made a deal outside with a dodgy looking guy in a Mercedes). At the bank we got 270 kwetcha for every pound we gave them, however Mr Price looked smug when we came out as he'd got 280 kwetcha from the mafia looking suited man with dark glasses outside. Our journey then begun up to Nkhata Bay. The landscape was stunning with flat cultivated areas and a backdrop of mountains. It soon became very obvious that the country is a very poor one. Mud huts with thatched roofs lined the road with children and families selling mangos, sugar cane, charcoal, tomatoes and water melons along the whole route. We stopped at a few places to buy a drink and stretch our legs and everytime we did we were surrounded by inquisitive people, especially children. They came running shouting 'mzongu...mzongu' which translates to 'white man...white man'. Everyone smiled and wanted to shake hands, many trying their broken English. I gave a few pens out to some children and they were genuinely over the moon. One very interesting moment was when we stopped in a town for a lunch of roasted corn on the cob, or roasted maize as they call it. Suddenly the attention turned from the mzongus who had arrived in their village, as a mob was developing. They chanted and ran down the road, the mob getting bigger and bigger. At the front was a boy, no older that 14 years old and he was being held by some older boys. He had been caught stealing and the local was of reprimanding them is to parade them down the street shouting at them and bringing shame on them. Even though he had done wrong, we actually felt a little sorry for the poor thief! PC Meirion wasn't sure of this type of policing, it wouldn't work in the UK. One thing that struck us about the journey was the number of people walking along the road. Where did they come from? Where were they going? Hundreds, even thousands of people walking, some going north , others south. Very few vehicles were on the road, but when we did pass one they were packed to the rafters with people. It was quite usual to see 15 grown men crammed into the back of a pick-up truck. Bikes are used a lot too, old 1950s type bicycles which are also use to carry large loads on the back. One the way we saw a group of Monkeys running along the side of the road, while some amazing birds were seen; African Fish Eagle, Hammerkop and the star bird a Pennant winged Nightjar in the car headlights (well worth googling if you get the chance). The journey was an incredible one, quite humbling in many ways. We have never seen such poverty and it was real eye opened of how lucky we are in the western world. One striking thing is though, is that everybody was smiling, seemed relaxed and genuinely happy, greeting us with a wave or a 'Moni' which means hello in the chewa language. This evening we arrived in the darkness Nkhata Bay and we are staying in lodge at the side of the lake. We have had our supper which was prepared by Mrs Moyo, Mzondi our host's wife. We were thrilled to see a picture of Mzondi amongst the children of Llandudno taking pride of place in Mzondi's living room. We ate chicken, rice and a beautiful warm tomato sauce - scrumptious. A lovely end to the day. I've just put the mosquito net up above my bed and am listening to the waves of Lake Malawi lapping at the steps of our lodge. I can't wait for the morning to open the curtains and see what view is waiting for me.
Tionana (goodbeye in chweze)
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